Machine Embroidery Designs (三)

Technical constituent of machine embroideryDuring the cycle of machine embroidery manufacturing is applied different means and tools. However, starting from the availability of two basic stages of manufacture, it can be market two fundamental corresponding tools of machine embroidery. They are:1. The computer with appropriate program maintenance and peripherals on the construction stage of manufacture.2. Automatic embroidery machine with concomitant supplementary equipment on the technological stage of manufacture.Let us list the fundamental information of industrial automatic embroidery machines and some supplementary special concomitant equipment.Industrial automatic embroidery machines according to fulfilled activity and principle of operation can be divided in two groups:1. Universal automatic embroidery machines.2. Special automatic embroidery machines.To special automatic embroidery machines can be attributed the machines using not quite standard embroidery methods, machines that are able to perform embroidery on out-of-the-way places of complete products and on materials that are difficult for embroidery. To one of the most commonly used type of special automatic embroidery machines can be attributed the so called Schiffli, machines that allow making embroidery with the utilization of decorative cord, to cut through material and at the same time to process the cut by embroidery. These machines are mostly used for finishing of light and thin, translucent, fashioned and other smart cloth and articles made out of it. For instance, Schiffli machines are often used at wedding dresses decoration.
Quite recently it appeared a new interesting kind of automatic special embroidery-the so called no-thread-embroidery and automatic no-thread embroidery machines. The principle of operation of such machines has a remote conformity with principle of producing of needle-punched fabrics. It consists in the fact that the machine with a set of needles (24 needles) runs through the structure of the main (working) material the locks of fibers of special auxiliary material. The auxiliary material is laid under the main material. After the auxiliary material removing on the main material remains an effective, specific pattern (picture).
Nowadays the leader in production of no-thread embroidery machines is the Japan Company Tanaka. In 2001 fashion show in Berlin and Paris were presented impressive collections made with the help of no-thread –embroidery on “Vari-O-Matic” machine of this company. To universal automatic embroidery machines are related the machines of lock-stitch with coordinate displaced frame holder which is meant for manufacture of embroidery with threads on classical and most widespread materials and articles. The use of such machines supposes some limitations in properties of used materials and constructions of complete products.
But these limitations are constantly growing narrower due to constant modernization and improvement of universal automatic embroidery machines and due to use of manifold auxiliary facilities and special devices. All known universal automatic embroidery machines are of lock-stitch type of machines and the structure of many parts of the mechanism has many similarities with lock-stitch embroidery machines.
The main parts of single-head universal automatic embroidery machine are column, case, frame holder and head. The case is fixed on column and consists of pole and cantilevered arm. Inside the upper part of column is installed the stitch mechanism. Inside the case is installed the main shaft mechanism. On the head is disposed a set of needle mechanisms with thread takeup and thread guide mechanisms. The head is able to shift from case in the horizontal position, engaging with the main shaft stirring up the needed needle mechanism. This enables the machine to make the shift of the thread color at one embroidery run.
The frame holder mechanism is able to shift the frame holder in a horizontal level in four directions from the active needle. The shift is made in step-type on coordinate according to given embroidery program. In this way the machine can make loch-stitches on material of different length and in any given order and direction, executing if needed the shift of working needle with the thread of the definite color. The industrial automatic embroidery machines can be both single-headed and with few heads and with corresponding number of necessary working mechanisms. The last are called many headed or multihead automatic embroidery machines.
Under normal conditions of embroidery all the heads and frame holders mechanisms works synchronously.